Zante is a fantasy island and the perfect family holiday destination

Hideaway: Remote Navagio Beach is only accessible by boat

The boat is listing as its 160 passengers rush to one side for a glimpse of the elusive creature that we are hoping to see emerge from the depths of the Ionian Sea.
“It’s coming up fast on the starboard side,” our guide Trevor tells us over the microphone.
Then suddenly there it is... a beautiful loggerhead turtle has popped up out of the water and is now looking inquisitively at the motley selection of boats bobbing around awaiting its appearance.
We are on board the Annoula on a day trip from the Ionian island of Zante and have already stopped a couple of times to jump off the back of the boat for a swim. But the real reason for the excursion is to see the turtles, although sightings are not guaranteed.
It is a lovely moment to encounter this endangered animal in the wild, swimming in the clear blue waters off Zante – or, to give it its Greek name, Zakynthos – and my wife Alison, nine-year-old son Will and I are thrilled when the turtle appears several more times.

Greek odyssey: Peter and Will stop for food

The Annoula is cruising in the National Marine Park of Zakynthos, located in Zante’s Laganas Bay. Established to protect the loggerheads, it is the first such park in the Mediterranean.
Every year, the female turtles swim more than 1,000 miles from North Africa to breed on beaches in Zante. One nesting site is found on the tiny island of Marathonissi, situated in the bay, which is shaped remarkably like a turtle and known locally as Turtle Island.
There are several other beaches where the turtles nest. People are not allowed on some, while on others they must avoid the soft sand furthest from the sea as this is where the eggs are likely to be buried.
The loggerhead is the second largest species of hard-shelled turtle – growing up to 3ft in length – and is in danger of becoming extinct, through loss of habitat, pollution and other human damage.

National treasure: Zante is proud of its loggerhead turtles

Zante is very proud of its turtles. Go into any souvenir shop and you will see turtle-themed gifts, but that is not all the island has to offer. Heavy rainfall in the winter means it remains very green, even at the height of summer. Lush vegetation combines with cliffs, mountains and hidden away beaches to give Zante a rugged beauty.
The third largest of the Ionian Islands – which include Corfu, Paxos, Lefkas and Kefalonia – Zante’s most famous landmark is Navagio Beach, also known as Smuggler’s Cove. This remote spot is surrounded by high cliffs, is only accessible by boat and is the last resting place of the smuggler ship Panagotis, which was wrecked on the beach in the 1980s while carrying an illicit cargo of cigarettes.
Navagio Beach can be seen on many of the island’s postcards and there are plenty of excursions available to visit it.

Seafaring: Boats in Zakynthos harbour

We were staying in the Alykanas Beach Village, a Thomson Family Resort in Alykanas on Zante’s north-east coast. Our studio apartment was basic but comfortable, with views of neighbouring Kefalonia, the island made famous in the book and film Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.
The Beach Village has several pools and Will was in his element, going down the waterslides 178 times during our week’s stay. I know this for a fact because I was there as he counted each one!
The largest pool is right in the middle of the complex. This is where hard-working entertainment reps Turbo Tom, GI Joe and Vicky Mouse organise fun and games throughout the day. These range from water volleyball to aerobics and quizzes, but if this isn’t your cup of tea you can choose to sit by the quiet pool right next to the lovely sandy beach.

Luxury: Blue skies over the Alykanas Hotel

This was where Alison lounged in the sun – the temperature was in the mid-30s all week – while Will and I played in the other pool, trying to score in water polo or batting a ball over the volleyball net.
Alykanas itself is a small resort. There are no rows of high-rise hotels along the seafront, just a main street lined with plenty of tavernas and bars.
A little street train takes visitors around the resort but we chose to use the horse-drawn cabs that ply their trade along the coast between Alykanas and its nearby sister resort Alykes, just a short walk or trot away.

Peter Rickman's trip to Zante

A ride in one of these is a lot of fun. Many are painted in bright colours and festooned with ribbons and garlands, and most of the drivers are very friendly, although we managed to choose one who was only interested in listening to his iPod for our first trip to Alykes.
The driver on the way back was completely different. White-haired, with a lined face full of character and a cowboy hat perched jauntily on his head, he greeted us with a big smile. He invited Will to sit next to him at the front and handed him the reins.
“You drive, boy,” he said and off we went with one very excited lad leading the way and cries of “Yee haw!” from our driver.
At €10 each way, the carriage rides are good value and something all visitors to Alykanas should experience.
Eating out is cheap, probably the only welcome result of Greece’s economic woes. We spend an average of €30 each night for the three of us and the tavernas still accepted credit and debit cards. On the subject of the country’s financial situation, the only other evidence we saw of it was the occasional unfinished building by the side of the road.

Dining out: Zorba’s Taverna is one of the many great restaurants to choose from

There are plenty of restaurants to choose from, but the menus are all very similar with a mixture of Greek and ‘international’ cuisine – pasta, steak and chips, and so on.
There are two tavernas we particularly liked – the Al Fresco in Alykes, with its first-floor terrace, views of the mountains and bistro-style food, and the Carissimo in Alykanas.
The latter gave us a carafe of wine on the house and a 10% discount on our second visit. Manager Makis Troussas enjoys nothing more than having a chat – this is definitely not a fast food restaurant.
With its friendly locals, beautiful scenery, lovely weather and, of course, its marine life, Zante is a wonderful holiday destination.
Our time here was very relaxing. In fact, like our cruise through the crystal clear waters around the island, you could say it was a turtle success.

Get there

Thomson has 7nts a/i at the 4* Family Life Alykanas Beach from £455 adult/ £245 first child/ £359 second child. Based on a family of 4 sharing inc flights from Manchester on May 3 and transfers; Birmingham flight on May 10 from £462/£262/£362; Gatwick flight on May 3 from £419/£329/£429. thomson.co.uk 0871 230 2555.