10 best local breakfasts in Singapore
If all-day breakfast is the new trend, then we are well ahead of our
time. For generations, our favourite breakfast, such as roti prata, nasi
lemak and carrot cake, have been enjoyed throughout the day. And if the
modern cafes have artisanal bread, we have artisanal chwee kueh and
chee cheong fun, all still freshly made to order.
We love to start our
days with our favourite local breakfasts, and soak in the stories of how
our immigrant great grandparents (or great great grandparents) came to
this land and created such diverse cuisine. Because of them, we are
spoilt with eating choices. Here are ten of our most favourite local
breakfast fare, including our recommendations on places to get them
cheap and, most importantly, good.
KAYA TOAST, SOFT-BOILED EGGS AND KOPI SET | This default set with a cup of kopi (hawker-style
coffee), kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs is considered a national
breakfast item. The kaya spread is so popular that outlets like Killiney Kopitiam and Ya Kun Kaya Toast are exporting it all over the world. We like Tong Ah Eating House,
where they roast their own coffee beans and make their own kaya. The
egg is poached in hot water so precisely that the egg white comes out
velvety and egg yolk is creamy and runny. The toast (two pieces, $3.50),
done French, crispy or steamed, is of good medium thickness and has
perfect texture. The best part of this meal is still the kaya spread, it
has strong egg-y flavour, not overly sweet and has rather rough custard
like texture. When it's heated, the kaya blends with the slice of
molten butter and becomes an instant bread pudding – Singapore style, of
course.

NASI LEMAK | It’s hard not to like nasi lemak. The rice is fluffy, has
slight richness from being cooked with coconut milk, and is fragrant
with ginger and lemongrass. At Yi Liu Xiang Nasi Lemak the
fragrance of the spices and herbs are prevalent. The stir-fried sambal
has enough kick to wake us up in the morning with its slightly sweet
under-taste. The menu here is kept simple and small. For $2.50, you get
rice, omelette and a choice of side – ikan kuning (yellow
banded scat), fish cake or crisp imitation fish fillet. The fried fish
tastes fresh and sweet with a little touch of turmeric. We also love the
topping of fried white bait instead of the usual anchovies –
it's cracker-crisp without any bitter aftertaste. You can also purchase a
container of these crispy white bait for $5 each.

PORRIDGE | There are several types of porridge that are popular in Singapore. The Cantonese version has very smooth and almost paste-like texture, and is usually served with your choice of protein and crispy you tiao (fried
dough stick). There is also Taiwan porridge that comes with chunks of
sweet potatoes. Then, there is our favourite Teochew style porridge at Teo Heng Porridge Stall.
Their steamed fish (from $5) is always fresh, it's lightly flavoured
from being poached in preserved vegetables. The natural sweetness of the
fish stands out. Their stewed egg is prepared like the Japanese onsen
eggs usually found as an accompaniment of ramen: it is firm on the
outside and creamy in the centre. Other simple offerings like fish
cakes, stewed pig innards and duck are prepared beautifully. The star,
however, is the bowl of porridge, done al dente with every grain still
intact, and the liquid, fragrant.

ASSORTED BUNS | If you like having breads and pastries for breakfast, then steamed bun takes the cake. Bao (buns in Chinese dialect) are tasty and great to enjoy on-the-go. At Home-make Pau Specialist,
these buns come in mini sizes, so you get to try more flavours. There
are classic stuffings like barbecued pork ($0.60 each), lotus paste
($0.50 each) and red bean paste ($0.50 each). Coffee lovers will love
their version of mini coffee buns ($0.50 each), lightly brown skin with
lotus paste that has been spiked with coffee. The skin is soft and
fluffy, the coffee lotus paste is not overly sweet and has robustness of
roasted coffee beans. Try some of these buns with a cup of kopi o (coffee with suagr, no milk). They also offer siew mai ($0.50 each), lor mai kai (glutinous rice with chicken, $1.50) and fan choy (rice with meat and vegetables, $1.50).
CARROT CAKE | Carrot cake is a combination of two of our favourite
breakfast items – omelette and radish ('white carrot’ in Mandarin) cake.
At Bukit Timah Food Centre, there are a few different carrot cake
stalls, but our favourite is from He Zhong Carrot Cake.
Their white version ($2/$3/$5) has chunks of soft radish cake with just
enough egg to hold them and form a firm outer layer, the generous
amount of chai po (bits of pickled vegetables) adds subtle
saltiness and crunchy texture to the cake. This family business started
in the 1980s. Today you’ll spot the second and third generation changing
shifts to man the stall. Don't be fooled by the young granddaughter,
she's inherited the skill impressively.
APPAM | This Indian-Muslim delicacy is akin to pancake. The batter is
fermented to give it the signature sourish taste, while the addition of
coconut milk smoothens the texture and adds richness to it. It is
getting harder to find good appam. Our favourite is the one from Heaven’s Indian Curry.
The plain appam (two pieces for $2) comes with fresh grated coconut and
coconut sugar. The coconut, done three different ways, gives a great
combination of flavours and textures: the edges are thin and crisp and
the bottom is soft and fluffy. To elevate that, add egg for savouriness
or cheddar cheese for a hint of saltiness ($1.80 each). Appam is sweet,
salty, sour, savoury, fluffy, crispy, creamy and crunchy all at once.
CHEE CHEONG FUN | Chee cheong fun (glutinous rice roll) is
another popular dim sum item, either served street style with hoisin
sauce or upgraded with protein stuffings. The latter is usually found in
restaurants, so imagine our joy when we found a stall that still made
this delicacy a la minute. At Freshly Made Chee Cheong Fun, the
Lee sisters have been mastering the craft for over three decades. The
rice roll is made with rice flour and water, poured on a square sheet of
cloth and steamed for less than a minute. The result is silky, soft and
thin rice roll that is so delicate, it melts in your mouth. Choose from
the variety of stuffings (char siew, prawns, mushrooms and chicken, $1
per roll, minimum order of $2), enjoy it with the sweet soya sauce and
chilli.
ROTI PRATA | If you think all roti pratas taste suspiciously similar,
it’s because the dough has been mass produced to cater to different
outlets. However, at Mr and Mrs Mohgan’s Super Crispy Prata the
dough is still made in-house, and Mr Mohgan still flips and pan-fries
each prata himself, hence the rather short opening hours. The prata is
made to order, so the outer layer is crisp upon serving and the inside
is soft and fluffy. Go for the plain prata ($0.90 each), it comes with
dhal curry that is thick, a lot spicier than it looks and has nice
gritty texture to compliment the prata. For $3, get a side of their
mutton curry, done well with fork-tender meat that is cooked thoroughly
but still pink in colour, the spices mask the gamey flavour, but in a
good way. If Mohgan's opening hours don't work for you, check out the
winner of Best Roti Prata in the HungryGoWhere Awards 2015, The Prata Place.
CHWEE KUEH | Chwee Kueh is traditionally made with stone-milled rice,
though these days they are mostly substituted with rice flour and are
made in factories. The family that runs Ghim Moh Chwee Kueh have
been keeping the tradition since the 1950s. Their tiny stall is packed
with thousands of aluminium moulds waiting to be poured over with the
rice mixture. Their cake is firm, soft and has a stickiness
characteristic of rice. The simple but good topping with chai po (pickled
vegetables), garlic and pork lard. Their version is saltier than their
peers, but gives a pleasant sweet aftertaste. The husband and wife who
run this stall are both in their 60s, but they still insist on preparing
every ingredient from scratch. They do allow themselves to close
earlier once in a while when they feel physically tired.
ECONOMICAL BEE HOON | The economical bee hoon is another breakfast item
that is so simple, yet it is getting harder to find. There are very few
stalls that proudly specialise in this dish, and Holland V Fried Beehoon is
one of them. Their bee hoon ($1) is not the charred and full of wok hei
type, but rather light and flavourful with infused stock. We love the
addition of crunchy bean sprouts and dry shrimp chilli on side for extra
kick. For an average of $2, you get two other sides, from a fried egg
and ngoh hiang (deep-fried meat rolled up in beancurd skin) to
luncheon meat and stir-fry cabbage. Our favourite side is their chicken
chop coated in bread crumbs, flavourful and crisp without being too
oily. If you like your noodles softer, ask for a combination of fried
bee hoon and egg noodles or kway tiao (flat rice noodle).
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